Irish Backroads Trip of the Month: Viking Country!

Incredible stretches of coastline gently indented with small coves and seascapes and dotted with fairytale castles, County Waterford stuns. Making my way around this glorious green gem in my modest rental car, I spent days exploring the Copper Coast’s unspoiled beaches and unusual geology.

Waterford City, the capital of County Waterford, was my starting point for this drive. Founded by the Vikings in 914, Waterford City is a handsome cathedral city set on the estuary of the River Suir and, by the 18th century, it was southeast Ireland’s main port, as well as a center for glassmaking. Sights worth exploring within Waterford City are Reginald’s Tower, Christ Church Cathedral, the Bishop’s Palace and of course the Waterford Crystal Factory.

And then there is Dungarvan. (Swoon!)

Endless surprises await you along this drive, not the least of which is Lismore Castle (pictured below), founded in the 7th century by St. Carthage. Situated in the Blackwater Valley beneath the Knockmealdown Mountains, Lismore was once famous for its double monastery, which housed both nuns and monks. It was a world-renowned center of learning. Dominating the approach to the town, Lismore Castle is the Irish seat of the Duke of Devonshire.

Fun Fact: Fred Astaire’s sister Adele, who married the second son of the 9th Duke of Devonshire, lived here for a number of years. The gardens are open daily and contain a collection of modern sculpture and a lovely riverside walk.